U.K. Trip, Part I: London, the Cotswolds, and Wales

This Fall 2025 trip began with a flight into London and a couple of short days reacquainting ourselves with the city. From there, my friend Jen and I joined a small-group Rabbie’s tour that would take us into Wales, beginning and ending in London, with a few scenic pauses in the English countryside along the way.

Wales had been on my list for years — one of those places that quietly tugs at you rather than demands attention. I had a sense it wouldn’t be a destination to rush, and traveling with Jen on a small group tour felt like the right way to experience it.

What I didn’t expect was how deeply Wales would settle in — through evenings in local pubs, sheep-dotted valleys rolling past the windows, ancient castles perched above the sea, and music echoing inside medieval walls. It was a journey meant to unfold slowly, and one that felt even richer because it was shared.

London: Museum Visits

This was my third visit to London, though this time I only had a couple of days to enjoy it. So I focused on two museums: one I’d never visited before—the Natural History Museum—and a return trip to one of my favorite museums in the world, the British Museum. Both museums are free admission, as are most of London’s major museums.

British Museum: Mummified cats, Rosetta Stone, Assyrian statues, and Enlightenment Gallery

Our Wales Journey: Map & Route

Buford: the “Gateway to the Costwolds”

Our first stop was in Burford, England, where we stretched our legs and visited St. John the Baptist Church, a medieval treasure dating from the 12th century with a captivating mix of architectural styles.

Our journey into Wales began with a stop in Hay-on-Wye, the famed book town near the English border. It felt like the perfect threshold into the country — shelves spilling into streets, old stone buildings softened by stories, and a pace that immediately told you to slow down.

Two Nights in Aberystwyth: Seaside Calm and Local Music

We arrived in Aberystwyth, our home for the next two nights, and checked into the Gwesty Richmond Hotel, a classic seaside stay with views that remind you the Irish Sea is never far away.

Later that night, we leaned into the local scene at The Bank Vault, where live music filled the space and strangers felt like friends by the end of the night. Moments like that — unplanned, joyful, communal — are often what linger longest.

Legends, Valleys, and Castles: Exploring North Wales

Leaving Aberystwyth, we headed north to Beddgelert, a village wrapped in myth and charm. We visited Gelert’s Grave, tied to one of Wales’ most famous (and heartbreaking) legends, before wandering past farmland dotted with sheep and stone cottages that felt pulled from a storybook.

Driving through Snowdonia National Park — home to the highest peak in Wales — felt like one long exhale. Rolling valleys and dramatic peaks unfolded around us, culminating in a scenic viewpoint from the summit that brought the entire landscape into view.

From there, we wandered the walls of Harlech Castle, its commanding views making its strategic importance immediately obvious. Just down the coast, we visited St. Tanwg’s Church in Llandanwg, a small 6th-century church tucked into the sand dunes, where history feels hushed and very personal.

South Wales Stories: Abbey Ruins, Poets, and Coastal Towns

Our route south began with the atmospheric ruins of Talley Abbey, where broken stone arches sit peacefully among greenery. It’s the kind of place that invites you to wander slowly and imagine what once was.

We continued to Newton House at Dinefwr Park, a stately home surrounded by expansive grounds, before stopping at Laugharne Castle and the nearby Dylan Thomas Boathouse. Standing there, it’s easy to understand how this landscape shaped Thomas’s words — creative energy seems to hang in the air.

That evening, we arrived in Tenby, where we’d spend the next two nights. Colorful houses, medieval walls, and a lively harbor make Tenby instantly charming. I happily sampled a few pints at Harbor Brewery, soaking in the atmosphere of this seaside town.

Pembrokeshire Highlights: Coastlines, Choirs, and Castles

The following day was packed with history and fresh sea air. We visited the RNLI St. David’s Lifeboat Station, learning why it plays such a vital role along this rugged coastline — a humbling reminder of how powerful the sea can be.

We then hiked a portion of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, where every turn seemed to offer another breathtaking view. This stretch of Wales feels wild in the best way.

Later, we explored the medieval city of St. David’s, visiting the 12 century St. David’s Castle and the even older St. David’s Bishop’s Place, both steeped in history.

We arrived back in Tenby late afternoon. Jen and I wandered the old quarter inside the town walls, enjoyed a seafood dinner at On George’s, and then attended a performance by a local men’s choir at St. Mary’s Church. Their voices filled the space, echoing off stone walls — one of those moments that gives you chills and stays with you long after the trip ends.

Returning to London: One Last Look Back

On our way back to London the next morning, we made a final stop at St. Fagans National Museum of History, wandering through its gardens and historic buildings. It felt like a gentle summary of everything we’d experienced — Welsh life, past and present, thoughtfully preserved.

Our last pause came in Castle Combe, a picturesque village that felt like a quiet farewell from the countryside as we were headed back to London.

Reflections on Wales

Wales isn’t flashy. It doesn’t rush you. It invites you to listen — to music in pubs and churches, to stories in stone, and to the land itself. And if you let it, it stays with you.